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One hour after watering, the soil around the rootball ought to feel damp, but ought to not be wringing with water if squeezed gently in the hand. The amount of water you require to apply to accomplish this level of moisture will be contingent on the size of your tree & your soil type. Rich organic soils act like sponges, light sandy soils like sieves, sticky clay soils like modelling clay, holding water in the planting hole like a jar, yet brilliantly difficult to rewet if allowed to dry out.
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Our planting teams wrap a perforated pipe around the rootball of each tree they plant as a standard practice. These perforated, corrugated pipes you see protruding from the soil at the base of most trees are designed to permit air circulation & for you to water directly down to the deeper soil layers. This is effective in the coursework of times of drought when surface soil can be hard.
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If your soil is clay or liable to water-logging, they will install an inspection pipe as well for you to monitor the water table. Made from the same material, this pipe is installed vertically alongside the rootball so you can check for standing water at the bottom using a stick - a bit like checking the oil in your automobile.
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